Akka's Dhirada

Cooking underwent a change in the decade of 1960’s. The conventional Chula  (चुल्हा) was replaced by kerosene stoves which were already available for long time but were not very popular for safety reasons and in that era kerosene was not subsidized by government as it is today. However when firewood and coal became expensive, Chulhas (चुल्हा) were on decline. Later LPG was preferred for cooking in bigger cities. With Chulhas (चुल्हा) gone the cooking got elevated to platforms and dining tables were finding a place in selected households. The brass utensils went in for recycling and these were getting replaced by shining smart looking stainless steel. Brightly shining steel (stainless steel is called as steel even today) plates reflected the affordability and acceptance of ‘modern’ culture. Aluminium vessels for cooking sneaked in to the households. The kalhaiwala (कल्हाईवाला), the ones who plated brass utensils with tin lost their livelihood. Thanks to the changes that took place. The traditional cutting and chopping gadget, Vili (विळी) in Marathi, got replaced with knives and chopping boards. Inter-regional food found its acceptance with Idli (इडली) and Dosa (डोसा or दोसा)  going places. This was followed by Tandoori and north Indian preparations breaching their traditional boundaries. 

Batter spread for Dhirada (Pancake), note the bubbles

There were few definite advantages of gas stoves. The stove got ignited instantly, it was easy to control the flame, and thus those dishes that needed low heat could be easily prepared on gas stoves. These advantages were of great help and helped cook better and faster. In earlier era the mid-day or evening snacks were mostly precooked because it was difficult to ignite the Chulha (चुल्हा) at odd hours and cook. The gas stoves offered the advantage of anytime cooking. This shifted the snacking habits from precooked to freshly cooked snacks. My after the school snacks that were Churma Laddoo (चुरमा लड्डू) or Roti (रोटी) with pickle or with ghee and sugar was replaced by freshly made Thalipeeth (थालिपीठ) or Dhirada. (धिरडं) It was easy, fast and convenient. There was also additional time available for experimentation, as time spent on igniting Chulha (चुल्हा) was eliminated.

Early sixties was the time when I went to college. Long hours in the college frequented visits to the canteen. In those days schools never had any canteens, but colleges had. During recesses the school children would rush to the fencing and buy boiled jujubes (Ziziphus jujube, बेर, बोरं in Marathi) or raw mango slices (कच्चा आम, कैरी in Marathi) or raw tamarind  (इमली,  चिंचा in Marathi) roasted ground nuts or roasted gram, from fence side vendors. Occasionally the school watchman or some teacher would play a spoilsport and deprive these students from the thrill of buying something that conventionally should not be bought. In colleges these restrictions were absent. The most common snacks in college canteens would be Aloobonda (आलूबोंडा similar to Batata Vada बटाटा वडा), Samosa  (समोसा) and variety of Bhajiyas (भजीया). Tea was the most common beverage and hardly anyone would opt for coffee that was rarely available.

Back home the fried stuff like Aloobonda (आलूबोंडा) , Samosa (समोसा), Bhajiya (भजीया) was not usually prepared, but pohe (पोहे) or sanja (सांजा, similar to Upama  उपमा), Thalipeeth  (थालिपीठ) and Dhirada धिरडं would be made. It was more from convenience point of view rather than health consciousness. There were no motorbikes or cars for youngsters, lots of walking or cycling would result in enough exercise and obviate any need for watching calories. I am going to share with you today a very simple recipe of Dhirada (धिरडं). This is a kind of pancake made from gram flour, Besan (बेसन), offers more of proteins. We generally add small quantity of garlic, green chili and chopped coriander leaves. Let’s proceed with the recipe.

Take in a bowl four heaped tablespoon of Besan (बेसन). Gradually add water to make paste. Add quarter spoon Carom seeds, Ajwain (अजवैन, Owa ओवा  in Marathi). These seeds will prevent stomachache, only the ache that is from overeating. Stomachache of J factor needs different treatment. To this paste add two finely chopped garlic cloves, about a teaspoon of chopped coriander leaves, one finely chopped green chili, you may have more if you want it hot, and salt to your taste. Add water to this mixture till you get consistency of sweet corn soup. Place a nonstick flat frying pan, Tawa (तवा) on gas stove, when it’s hot pour a spoonful of any edible oil of your choice. Spread the oil with the help of spatula that you will need to turn over the pancake. Reduce gas flame. Now with a ladle pour half of the mixture from bowl on Tawa (तवा) and spread with the ladle. You can also hold the fry pan handle and rotate in circular  motions to spread the batter in round shape. You may need some practice for this. Ensure that you find bubbles (as shown in the picture above) once the batter is spread. If you do not get the bubbles in first try, it doesn’t matter. The taste will not change, the look and thickness may be different and that is fine, not to worry. Spread till thickness becomes about 1 mm. You have to guess it, no need to have a measuring scale for this. Increase the flame; try to lift from a side to check if it’s done. If it’s done then it will easily come on the spatula. Turnover and cook over low flame for two minutes. Turnover again and finally place on serving plate. Repeat the procedure with remaining batter (mixture). These two Dhirada (धिरडं) will be enough for your evening snack or add another one or two that will be good enough even for light dinner. Keep a slice of ripe tomato or a glass of water by your side. If you happen chew the chopped chili it’s better to take a sip of water than to shower your favourite curses (galis) गालीया.

Akka's Dhirada, simply delicious

P.S. If you fail in the attempt, no need to worry. You can break the pancake further and scramble it, just like the scrambled eggs, the all favourite Anda Bhurji (अंडा  भुर्जी)  and still enjoy. It’s sure to taste great. Good luck.