Oriental Mary

Best wishes for 2014

You can end 2013 on a spicy note. Something special for those who like 'hot' stuff. Only for those who are of legal drinking age and for whom alcoholic beverages are not contraindicated, or not suggested, or not advocated etc. for health or religious or any other reason. Drink responsibly, don't drink and drive. 

Crushed ice, ice cubes, Schezwan sauce, Salt and crushed black pepper for coating the glass rim, lemon juice, 100 ml tomato juice, 60 ml Vodka. Take in a shaker 100 ml of tomato juice, add 60 ml vodka, one third teaspoonful of schezwan sauce, pinch of salt and crushed black pepper, half teaspoonful of lemon juice and crushed ice. Shake vigorously. Coat the rim of a tall glass with mixture of crushed black pepper and salt. Place an ice cube or two at the bottom of the glass. Carefully pour the mixture from shaker. Pierce a dry red chili, pitted green olive and again a red chilli on a long tooth pick. Place this on the top. Keep stiring and Enjoy.

Drink responsibly - Oriental Mary

Variation is Tikha Peru, where tomato juice is replaced by Guava juice and schezwan sauce is replaced by few drops of Tobasco and lime juice in a lesser quantity. Rest ingredient and process is same.

Indo Italian Fusion

This is the last post of 2013. Let 2014 bring all my friends more prosperity and happiness than past. Let me take you to the first decade of this millennium and share a Indo-Italian fusion.

The new millennium brought in many changes in the food culture. Western fast food joints were already doing good business. KFC that had a hard time in last decade tried their luck with renewed efforts to stage a successful comeback. Australian coffee shop, Gloria Jean, was also trying for space in the Indian market. So all in all, everything was looking great with impressive economic growth.

The era was fusion was gaining ground. Spring Roll Dosa to Chinese Bhel and McAloo Tikki to McSpicy Paneer everything was becoming popular. At Domino’s Kheema Do Pyaaza started shaking hands with Chicken Mexicana. Pizza Hut designed Veg Pizzas, all different combinations were being made available to Indian customers. For various reasons Italians had a different say in India. Few Italians are so well-known as Pizza is known in India, right from Delhi to a village. Somehow apart from Pizza other Italian cuisine had not much of luck in India. Risotto, Lasagna, Spaghetti, and many other specialities could not attract average Indian foodie. Pasta has not really clicked in the Indian market. May be the pastas are bland and tasteless. It is the sauce, cheese, herbs etc add taste to the pasta, and perhaps that did not find favour of Indians.

Ingredients for Dal Botie

Pasta is a traditional Italian food. Pasta is made in most part of the world from wheat . Pasta can be in different forms either as a sheet or shapes or what one can commonly calls as a noodles. About 310 different forms of pasts have been documented. Basically there are two categories of pasta, fresh and dried. There is a subdivision as long pasta and short pasta. Long pasta has travelled across the world and depending upon the diameter it is referred as vermicelli, spaghetti, fedelini, capellini etc. In India we have it as semiyan, sevai, etc. In the eastern part of the world, wheat has been replaced by rice. China, Thailand, Indonesia and even South India have rice noodles, a form of long pasta. Iranians brought a different form of pasta to India, very often we have it with Kulfi, it’s what we call as Falooda. Middle East and North East Africa including Egypt, use the long pasta mostly for deserts and it’s known as She’reya. Semiyan are mostly consumed as a sweet preparation, with exception of South India where it is also used to make savory Semiyan Upma.

Short pasta did not attract the eastern part of the world as long pasta. Various forms like penne, macroni, farfalle, spighe, riccioli, rigates etc. have no takers in India. The Minute Pasta, also called as Pastina, is used more in soups, but again Indians did not accept it. Coming back to dried sheet pasta, I get reminded of a wonderful preparation that my mother used to make, it was a complete meal for me. For her it was a variation from regular meals and took same or perhaps more time to prepare. The preparation was Dal Dhokli, a Roti cooked in Dal. I took cue from same to make my own version of Dal Dhokli, it’s fusion of Italian pasta with Indian Dal. I have used whole wheat "bow ties", a form of farfalle pasta for this preparation.

Indo Italian Fusion

Recipe: Take a bowlful of leftover Dal. If you were too hungry to finish everything earlier night, then you will have cook Dal, preferably split and skinned pigeon peas (Toor Dal, Arhar Dal). Take 25 bow ties in a microwave safe bowl or casserole. If hungry you may add few more. Add water and ensure the water level at least half an inch above the bow ties level. Add little less than half teaspoonful salt. Microwave on high for twelve minutes. While bow ties are getting cooked. Place a yoke on gas stove. Add one and half tablespoonful refined oil of your choice. Avoid olive oil. Add mustard seeds, once these splatter, add half teaspoonful of Carom seeds (Ajwain) and add teaspoonful each or turmeric (haldi) powder, red chills powder, garam masala (any branded garam masala will do). Immediately add cooked dal to this. Add water to have desired consistency (as thick as good quality sweet corn soup). Let mixture boil. Remove bow ties from microwave, drain the water. Add these bow ties to boiling dal. Reduce the heat and let boil for two minutes. Add salt if needed (depends if the cooked dal had any salt). Add Little Dry Mango (Amchoor) powder or lime juice if you like sour dal (it’s optional) and  finally add chopped coriander leaves.

Pour the above in a serving bowl. Add spoonful or more of Desi Ghee (check with cardiologist and check your serum lipids) for that irresistible wonderful taste and flavor. Enjoy.

PS: Many of my friends in the US have started enjoying this preparation. Try out at least once.
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Jacketed Potato

The last decade of last century was very crucial for India. India announced liberalization Foreign investments and products had less entry barriers. India attracted McD, KFC, Coca cola in this decade. KFC had problems to start with but for McD and Coke it was much smoother entry. McD adapted their product mix to suit the Indian cultural framework. Not only the menu underwent a change with beef finding no place in Indian menu, McD positioned themselves as a family restaurant. The fast food joint serving junk food in USA became a family restaurant in India. The pricing was designed to attract even those who would not otherwise spend that kind of money on fast food. It was still higher, as the Vada Pav that one would have for Rs.5/- was available in modified form as McAloo Tikki for minimum of Rs.25/- plus taxes. There was a segment available for this and McD established themselves well. The promotion was well designed to attract all age groups with emphasis on retro time frame for pricing. McD went ahead with home delivery in India. I haven’t seen McD doing home delivery in other countries. Not lagging behind were Pizza chaps, also cashed upon the changing food culture. The Pizzas also went in for adaptation and gave different local toppings for Indian consumers. Dominos brought in change with delivery in thirty minutes. A different standard in service industry was set in.

Baked and slightly roasted Potato with Cheese

Gadgets were getting popular. Microwave ovens were launched, but consumers had lots of reservations. Most of the fast food chains were using microwave ovens to reheat the food. The utility was more for reheating rather than cooking. It took a while to develop skills for microwave cooking. I got a microwave oven from Dubai in 1992 that’s still working. The newer versions of convection, grill, were not available in those days. They emerged in India little late. My passion for cooking made me experiment with microwave cooking. It was fun. I tried a simplest dish nearly twenty years back and I routinely make it for evening snacking, mostly during rainy season and winter. I got idea for this product in England.

On one of the weekends I decided to travel to south England, as there was nothing much to do in London. I drove to Sheepwash village in the county of Devon. Sheepwash village was adjusted as the best village in England. A very small village that was really well maintained. All possible amenities that a village would need were available. There was a small church, war memorial, piggery, bakery, grocer, post office you name it and everything was available. Sitting in the pub in this village that had about 300 population, yes just 300, I was looking for a vegetarian snack. There was none. The owner of the pub offered to serve a dish that did not figure in the menu. He called it as “Jacketed Potato”. I liked the name, it sounded interesting. I ordered the dish and was happy at my decision.

Ingredients for Jacketed Potato

Let’s see how I make jacketed potato. In the original recipe the entire process is done on a charcoal grill. As it is little difficult to have a charcoal grill in two BHK apartment, I make this preparation in microwave oven. Let us start, take a large potato, similar to one that we had when we made La Al Burto. Wash it properly. Prick it with fork all around. Wrap the potato in plastic film and microwave on high for two to three minutes. Turnover and microwave for another two minutes. Check, if done, be careful as it will be hot. If still hard then microwave for another minute. In maximum six minutes a potato will be done. (If not done then change the microwave or buy better quality fresh potatoes). Once done let it stand for two minutes. Get it out from the oven and remove the plastic wrap. Be careful again as it will be hot. Pierce a skewer through the potato, if skewer is not available then use a thin knife. Now roast the potato on gas flame, as charcoal may not be available. Let the potato skin burn a little to give a typical burnt smell. Next step is to cut the potato in half, vertical or horizontal, cut as per your choice. Scoop out little portion from the center of both the halves. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper. Stuff the hollow portions with cheese, cheddar or mozzarella or combination and a chopped clove of garlic. Place these two halves again in the microwave oven with stuffed portion facing upwards. Microwave for a minute or till cheese melts. Remove from the oven, allow cooling for a while, scoop out small portions at a time and enjoy. Discard potato skin if you don’t like. Enjoy with hot cup of Masala Chai (Read the blog)
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Tea made simple

All these I have been talking about the way food was cooked in second half of last century and I gave simple recipes for evening snacks. There are few more to come before I start giving recipes for the breakfast. However last week someone requested me to explain how to make good tea. I was foxed. I thought everyone can make tea. I thought and realized that the most difficult preparation to make is tea. You may not believe, but it’s a fact. Had it not been like that then we would have never heard the sporadic comments like tea is good today or aaj chai badhiya bani hai  (आज चाय बढिया बनी है )  and similar. I really appreciate my friend who has been frank enough admit inability to make tea. This needs guts. Thanks.

Good tea is very subjective. Some one likes strong tea, someone is found of light tea. Some like aroma others wants strength. Somebody is fond of lots of sugar others aren’t. in addition there are large number of factors that are beyond our control, like quality of tea leaves, quality of milk, steeping time, brewing time, temperature of the tea to be served, climatic conditions and as I always say, that a tinge of love added while preparing the tea.

Indian Tea with Milk and Ginger

We had tea in India much before British learnt how to spell tea. When East India Company got firmly rooted in India they encouraged the tea plantation in Assam in nineteenth century for their commercial interest. India has been the largest producer of tea. Today India is pushed from top position to second largest tea producer’s position by China. Tea has been a native plant in Assam and some antique recipes of tea leaves and garlic are also documented. Contrary to this many researchers claim that tea travelled from China to India. Hope China doesn’t claim that Assam is a part of their territory on this pretext. In one of the four ancient novels, “The Dream of the Red Chamber”, the author Cao Xueqin has mentioned that the tea was imported and consumed by rich people in China. Some researchers believe that tea is native of India and has been mentioned even in Ramayan. Some believe that the Somras, is tea. Black tea is a fermented product and so is, as claimed, Somras. The base for any alcoholic beverage is of vegetable origin and so is for most of the intoxicants (afim, charas, ganja, tobacco etc) except two legged human beings (your sweetheart) and chemicals (LSD, amphetamine and alike). Ayurveda has been advocating various infusions, commonly called as Kadha, may be kind of herbal tea, so tea is certainly not alien to us.  Finally I can beyond any doubts claim that tea is not from China. It would have never lasted so long unlike Chinese goods.

Tea has been regionalized. In China it’s the green tea. There are also flavoured teas like the most popular, Jasmin tea. From China tea travelled to Japan in the eighth century where the monks of Zen Buddhism had tea to keep them awake for meditation. Here again when tea is served it is usually green tea; however black tea and Chinese jasmine tea are also popular. Milk is not added to tea in these countries.

British enjoy tea. The typical “English Breakfast Tea” is a blend of tea from India, Sri Lanka and Kenya. The other popular blend is for Earl Grey Tea, which is a black tea with addition of oil from fragrant citrus fruits that offers a distinctive taste and aroma. These two blends popular in the UK are strong blends, and therefore milk is added to the brew.

Americans have been ungrateful to tea. In fact they owe their independence to tea. It was the Boston Tea Party, a protest against tea duties in 1773 that sparked off the American War of Independence. Had tea not been there, America would have been yet another British colony. But Americans forgot tea and chose coffee. Times changed, Chai has attracted Starbucks, Dunkin Donuts and many other American fast-food and beverage joints. Snapple offers ice cold fruit flavoured tea in American market.

Tea is a national drink of India. India has 30% consumption of world tea production and 70% of India’s produce is consumed locally. Tea was again a rich man’s drink in this country till 1950. Government of India set up Tea Board in 1950 and then after there is no looking back. Tea is different in every state in India. Commonality is Indians need strong brew. Fragrance is manageable as chai masala, ginger, cardamom mask the original flavor. There is no better drink than Adrakwali Chai with Pakodas or Batata Vada anytime on a rainy day or a hot cup of tea when one is out of the bed, particularly in morning in the winter season.

Mix that's needed to make Chai Adraki

Let’s see how an acceptable cup of Adrakwali chai should be made. I have tried to standardize the process so that the taste remains same or similar in every attempt. For as much tea I want, I usually take that much quantity of water. So for one cup of prepared tea, I take one cup of water. I understand this is fundamental but it is important. Even the tea pot is same every time. Pour water in the pot, grate small piece of ginger directly in the water, add one and half teaspoon sugar, more or less as per your taste, and bring it to boil. Once the boiling is vigorous, reduce the flame and add two third teaspoonful of tea powder/granules. Boil this for one minute by watch. Now add one third teaspoonful of Darjeeling tea leaves. Stir well with a spoon. Swich off the flame and cover for two minutes, again by watch. This is the time I give for tea leaves to brew. After two minutes slightly lift the cover, if you see the leaves still floating on the surface then you have to cover again and wait for a while. The leave generally settle down when the brewing is complete. While brewing is going on take about one fourth cup of milk in a microwave safe cup and heat for 30 seconds. Milk will be near boiling temperature. Carefully remove this from oven and pour in the tea decoction. Pour slowly so as to judge the desired strength and colour of the tea. You may need more or even less depending upon quality of tea and milk that you use. Strain the tea in your favourite mug or cup. If you need it hot then microwave for maximum fifteen seconds. Few trials will help you reach a level of standardization. What I do is to take a particular brand of tetrapack milk with higher fat contents. In USA I use half and half, in India avoid any toned milk if you want good tea. Not to worry about calories as the quantity that you are going to use for one cup of tea will be about 50 ml of milk. You can certainly adjust this by eating one candy less or doing more workouts. I am sure in few trials you will boast that making good tea is my cup of tea. Remember there is no substitute to a good refreshing cup of tea, even though I like coffee. Enjoy.

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Tea around the world

La Al Burto

I am not a professional cook or a qualified chef, but I like to cook. I like it because I like to eat food. After eating only I would pass a judgment if it was up to my taste or not. I never call any food as bad. What I may not like someone else might like. It’s matter of individual taste. There are few other possibilities; someone may not have done a right job. The method and ingredients might not have been right. So why blame the food? Cooking is now my passion, and I encourage everyone to try to it out, even to those who hate cooking. I have a friend in USA who does not cook for an excuse that I could never imagine in my life. The only excuse she does not cook is that the carpets in her house absorb the fumes and the house stinks. What an excuse and what a word to use for aroma of the food. Some use a very common excuse of paucity of time. But if one plans well cooking can be over in few minutes. Well everyone has some reasons to hate cooking and I never challenge them. It’s the way they think and they have the right. We all are different, someone listens to music to sooth the nerves, someone smokes to relieve the tension, someone is at feet of some Baba to restore lost confidence there are thousands of way to find solace. I find it when I cook. During my two months holiday in USA in 2000, I travelled through USA only by surface transport, rail and road. Met large number of friends across the country, Enjoyed their hospitality. All of them went out of the way to make my stay comfortable. I had to offer something from side and what I offered in return was cooking my signature dishes with available ingredients for them. I would ask them to shelve their plans to take me out for a dinner and in return I would prepare my signature dishes for them and their friends. It was very satisfying and soothing. Not everybody can do it or should do it. I did because I liked it.

Spicy boiled and mashed potatoes

My job took me entire India and to very large number of countries around the world. I would never miss an opportunity to learn local cuisine wherever I went be it a roadside vendor making Litti in Patna or Cajun Style Dirty Rice from a Chef in leading Restaurant in Breaux Bridge, Louisiana. I would even teach Indian dishes to the chefs of the hotels where I stayed abroad. It started in 1985 when I taught Upama and basic curry to the Chef of Hotel Ethiopia in Addis Ababa. Indian restaurants had not mushroomed in that era as they are today. Another lesson was to my Bangladeshi friend, Manzoor’s wife Maya, who was fond of Dasa and wanted to learn the same. In return I got a recipe from each one of them. Let’s see what Maya taught me. It’s very simple, fast to make and healthy dish. I consume it as a snack while it’s an accompaniment for rice for Bengalis and for rotis or Litti for Bangladeshi Biharis.

Aloo Bhurta Bangali Style

Let’s see how it’s made. Take 3 or 5, medium or small size potatoes; if you are in US then you can take one large size Russet potato. Prick with fork or a knife at few places. This helps to release the steam that gets generated within when it’s been microwaved. Cover potatoes with plastic wrap and microwave on high for four minutes. I would suggest turning over once after about two minutes. Press a potato gently with thumb; if it’s soft then it’s done. If you feel it is still uncooked then micro for another minute or so. Generally four to six minutes are enough. Be careful when you press the hot potato, you may dip your thumb in cold water before you press the potato. Do it your way but be careful.  Allow to cool for a while. In case if you don’t want to use microwave then you can boil the potatoes (of course without plastic wrap), but it takes longer time. Peel the potato and mash. Be careful when you handle a hot potato. You can do it as stupidly as your boss does it when you get pixxxd off or you can do it as wisely when your subordinates are unreasonable with you. Joke apart, be careful. Chop few coriander leaves, about one tablespoon of chopped leaves are fine. Keep aside. In small yoke or a kadhai heat about 30 ml or two tablespoon of Mustard oil. Yes, mustard oil. Don’t raise your eyebrows. The mustard seeds are a source of this oil. The same seeds are used to make mustard sauce that you have when you buy a sandwich in fast food joint. Source and caloric values are same. Once oil is heated add about quarter teaspoon mustard seeds, let splatter, switch off the gas, add one fourth teaspoon of turmeric powder, haldi. Pour this over the mashed potatoes. Sprinkle one sachet of red chili flakes that you might have in stock when you got your last pizza, else you can use chili powder or flakes to your taste. Add salt as needed. Mix well with a spoon as the tempered oil must be hot. Garnish with coriander leaves. Bengalis like it in a shape of ball (God knows why?). You may or may not do that. I take this stuff for my evening snacking. Remember baked potatoes are very healthy and you don’t have to worry about carbs. Try out. It takes less than 10 minutes by watch and is done by the time you download two songs (of course legal downloading). Enjoy.

Ingredients for Aloo Bhurta

I have made variation of the above recipe. I call it La Al Burto. A name with Spanish touch as this recipe will be appreciated in Mexico also. There is no oil, no tempering in this variation. All that you have to do is to add a teaspoonful of your favourite pickle in the mashed potatoes, along with chopped coriander leaves, chili flakes and salt, which you will have to adjust as the pickle that you are adding has already some extra salt. Mix well and give any shape that you desire and enjoy. This goes very well with white wine or white rum, though I don’t recommend alcoholic beverages. Good recipe when you want to save on gas and use microwave only.

PS: If the bhurta is little dry, as it depends how long the potatoes had taken shelter in your or grocer’s shelf, as that affects the moisture contents. You may thus sprinkle small quantity of water or add oil as per your taste to make the bhurta moist. Enjoy.

Chinese Invasion

In last few posts I have been writing about the changes that took place in food culture from 1950’s to 1970’s. In the next decade there was wave for Chinese food. Today we see a Chinese Gadi and a chinky eyed Nepali cook at every corner even in small towns of India, but in 1980’s Chinese food was a novelty. I used to travel about 230 kms from Kolhapur to Pune to enjoy Chines food at Chung Fa on the East Street. If I was in Mumbai (it was Bombay that time), I would not miss a chance to visit Flora in Worli to enjoy Chinese delicacies. As days progressed even small restaurants started adding Chinese dishes in their menu and each one had their own way to prepare the Chinese food. I was in a five start hotel in Patna in mid eighty’s and was tempted to order Chinese dishes those were on their menu. When the food was served I was wondering is it Chinese or some regional Bihari cuisine with dash of vinegar and soya sauce. Anyway the Chinese cuisine finally flowed down the streets and by end of that decade everyone was serving Chinese food. In early 80’s it was kind of a prestige to order Chinese food, may be to show that one is different. Unfortunately other cousins of Chinese cuisine like Thai or Indonesian did not have that acceptance in the Indian market. 

Stir Fry Vegetables - Nutritious and Delicious

The most acceptable non-Indian cuisine in India is certainly Chinese cuisine. This is the one that’s not only available at every nook and corner but some of us like to try out in our kitchen. Chinese food has sneaked in our kitchen like suspicious quality Chinese goods. I have two stories about Chinese foods that I read many years back. In one folk tale, a son was asked by his mother, who for some strange reasons was in the hell, to get her some food. She was not happy with the food that was available in the hell (Chinese hell?). Quite understandable! The poor chap used to cook delicacies for her and carry it to hell for her. The guards on duty would stop the son on pretext of checking the food (security was important even in the hell). The tasty food then would be consumed by the guards (they are same even today) and the poor mother would still go hungry. The son thought of an idea and cooked something that looked repulsive but was great in taste. And that is what we have today. Chinese food tastes good but it’s not attractive to look at. Second story that I read was how and why humans started cooking the food. Long long ago there was a fire in a jungle in China. Trees were burnt and animals got roasted. After the fire was doused some persons went around seeing the damage. Someone saw a roasted pig and pocked his finger in the pig. Superficially the roasted pig was not hot but within it was. As the pocked finger (bad habit) felt the heat, the person withdrew his finger and to cool it down put it in his mouth. He was surprised at the taste of roasted pig. It is said, that was the turning point and human beings started cooking the food. 

There is no better example than the Indian version of Chinese food to understand how food gets regionalized. Chinese Bhel in India is the pinnacle. I can’t think of any country in the world that is so imaginative like India to bend a cuisine as Indians have done it to Chinese. Even in USA there are eateries that specialize in Indian Chinese cuisine and are doing a great business. The Chinese food that I had in China on couple of occasions was so different than the one that I have in India or elsewhere in the Indian subcontinent. McD, KFC, Pizza Hut and many others may have gone for product adaptation in India but Indians have done product standardization for Indian Chinese cuisine. 

Prominent styles of Chinese cuisines outside China are Singaporean, Indonesian and Malaysian. However all these are generic Chinese for a common man. Only connoisseurs can differentiate. For others it’s all Chinese. It similar to what North Indians call a south Indian. For most North Indians anyone from South is Madrasi. They can’t differentiate between Tamilian, Andhraite, Kannadigas and Keralites. All these are Madrasis. Cuisine from almost all countries have their own influence on Chinese cuisine, be it Peruvian Chinese cuisine (known as Chifa) or Pakistani Chinese cuisine. By end of the day what appeals to the pallet is important and that brings me back to my point. Cook anything, in any style as long as it satisfies you, it’s great. Which cuisine you have followed does not really matter. What you cook is your speciality and that matters. 

Chinese cooking is faster. It is generally on a high flame. The trick is how you chop the vegetables or chicken or meat. Normally food is cut diagonally. This offers a larger surface area to the heat and also absorbs more of spices. More time is spent on cutting vegetables than the time spent on cooking. For busy individuals who like Chinese cuisine and want try out cooking at home, the best part is availability of cut vegetables in the market for Chinese preparations. Today almost every super market offers a pack of assorted cut vegetables for Chinese cuisine. You don’t have to buy different vegetables in small quantities or even one each of coloured capsicums, just buy a pack of cut vegetables; you will get the mix of green, yellow and red capsicum along with French beans, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, spring onions etc. The best part is you get separate cut vegetable packs for fried rice or for curries or soups. All cut to size in a shape that is needed. So it becomes an extremely smart way to cook Chinese meals. You just have buy few bottles of sauces and these generally have long shelf life and remain good. So on way back from work buy a pack of cut vegetables for stir fry vegetables and buy a bottle each of All in One sauce, dark soya sauce and white vinegar. You are ready to cook delicious Stir Fry Vegetable, your style. Here is the simple recipe but little tricky. The crispiness is important in stir fry vegetable and that depends upon freshness of vegetables, available surface area and moisture contents of vegetable. Some gut feeling and trial & error is needed, but the final product is really good. 

Cut vegetables. Red, yellow, orange, green capsicum, purple cabbage etc,

The recipe is simple and fast. Stir fry is to be done on high flame. Most important aspect of this preparation is the sequence in which you fry the vegetables and the frying time for each one of these vegetables. Place a nonstick yoke or a casserole or a skillet on high flame. Add one tablespoon refined oil for every two hundred grams of vegetables. First one to jump in the frying pan will be French beans (wish my boss was French beans). Let them have their privacy for a minute. Keep stirring. Now carrots will join them for a minute, don’t stop stirring. This is followed by cauliflower and broccoli. Stirring continues. Let another minute pass by. Now it’s the turn of Cabbage, green and/or purple. Stir for half a minute and add all varieties of capsicum that you have. If you have just green, that is also okay. Fry for a minute. Now add one tablespoon each of soya sauce, All in One sauce and half tablespoon of white vinegar. Sprinkle salt as per your taste. Stir again. Add half teaspoon of sugar and mix well. Stir for a minute along and finally add spring onion. Stir for few seconds and you are done. Shift the fried stuff to a bowl else it will get over cooked. If it remains little raw then also it is fine because except French beans all other vegetables can be consumed raw or undercooked. So don’t worry and in any case French beans are well done in the process. You are done. If you want to enjoy this with some gravy then you have work for another five minutes or just a minute if you do multitasking. 

Simple - sequence and time for high flame frying

For sauce you will need half cup of water, one tablespoon of corn flour, one table spoon of sugar, one tablespoon white vinegar, salt to taste and half cup of orange juice. If you are in multitasking mode then while you are frying carrots, place a small pot that can boil about a cup of water on another burner. Add about half a cup of water, bring it to boil. In between be smart enough to mix a tablespoon of corn flour (corn starch) in two tablespoons (or more if needed) water. Keep it aside. Once the water in the pot boils add half a cup of pulpy orange juice (without pulp will also do), let boil. Now add sugar, vinegar and salt. Stir well and add the corn flour paste, stir well again and remove from the flame. Pour this sauce on stir fried vegetables that you have kept in a bowl. Your stir fry vegetable in tangy orange sauce is ready. The quantity of sugar, vinegar and salt will depend on your taste and the sourness of the orange juice that you have. You may have to do some trial and error, but trust me this dish tastes wonderful. 

PS. Those who don’t like oranges can try pineapple juice. Adjust sourness as desired with vinegar. I like this too.

Vataleli Dal

Ever wondered how one could cook without a food processor, cooking gas, nonstick utensils, microwave and other ovens in the past? For that reason even refrigerators were uncommon in India in 1970’s. The question is very similar to the one how could one do the business or run an office without internet in the past. In 70’s of last century the culinary practices vastly improved upon the preceding decade. Nonstick utensils, glassware, ovens were becoming common though expensive in India. The mixer/grinders were getting popular. The conventional Khalbattā (Mortar and Pestle), Sil Battā, were getting in to attic. Sil Battā may be in different shapes or sizes, is used in other Asian countries as well as in South America. It is also important in Andean cuisine. It’s called Batan (Sil) and Un᷉a (Battā). It has a flat stone (the batan, in Marathi it’s Patā). And un᷉a (Battā) is a grinding stone (in Marathi - Varvantā). The Battā is held in both hands and rolled over the food placed on the Sil. The pressure on Battā is determinant for fineness of the grinded food, less pressure will leave the food coarse and more pressure would make it fine. The Sil Battā is used both for wet and dry grinding. Does the taste of food get affected by the way one uses the gadgets or medium to cook? The answer is YES. It does. Try out yourself. Sprinkle on a portion of your dish, may be a soup or salad,  dash of black pepper powder that you purchased from the grocer and now to compare it give a dash of freshly crushed black pepper to the other portion of the same dish. You will notice a remarkable difference. The taste and aroma of freshly crushed is so adorable (of course if you like black pepper) than the powdered one. The Ghee that you make at home has such a wonderful aroma compared to any branded Ghee available in the market. Food cooked on charcoal is much tastier than the food cooked on gas or electric stove. That’s what makes a Tandoori chicken so delicious than the broiled or grilled chicken with same masala. There are n numbers of factors that matter. Let me not make it complicated for you. Use any gadget, any medium that’s easy and available, but just add a dash of your love when you cook. That will make a big difference. A simple Dal (curried lentils) that you make when your spouse is in a good mood has to be different than the Dal you make tolerating indifferent mood of your spouse.  

Soaked and Roasted Savory Chana Dal

Anyways, in India 1970’s was a different decade. Eating out was becoming common. Restaurants were having a good time (they have still better time now). The food served was essentially Indian. But for continental cuisine, thanks to British, other cuisines were relatively unknown. The concept of cooking differently for God (as mentioned in earlier post) got diluted. The specialist cooks Achari or Ayyas were generally from Telgu Brahmin community for ceremonial meals, were on decline. For daily cooking one could engage Pandatva or Maharaj, from MP/UP Brahmin community from Rewa/Pratapgarh districts, were also on decline. ‘Caterers’ was a new breed that was emerging. We used to get Naganna and his brother Rajanna (Telgu Brahmins) to cook at our place on special occasions. On such days we had around 150 to 200 invitees for the lunch. Both the brothers would come to our place on previous evening of the function. Dug up the ground in the back yard and make a large chulas (Stove made from mud and bricks to use firewood for cooking large quantity of food). Then they would worship the chulha, allow it to dry overnight. Next ritual was to wash their spare dhoti (remember what Gandhi used to wear?), hang it on the clothesline to dry overnight. No one would ever touch their dothi as wearing a clean dothi untouched by anyone was the basic requirement for cooking food on such special occasions. These brothers did a great job with variety of dishes. Taste of one of the accompaniments cooked by these brothers still lingers on my tongue. It is a very simple recipe, more so with mixer/grinders available in every household. Think of those days when the cook had to use Sil Batta to prepare this dish for 200 guests. I really admire the physical and mental strength these guys had, to come out with wonderful dishes.

Soaked Chana Dal and other ingredients

To prepare this wonderful high protein dish take half cup of chana (gram) dal, soak it in adequate warm water for about half an hour. Don’t worry about quantity of water, let it be little more, anyway later you are going to drain it. You can keep dal for soaking after you return from office and while you get fresh. Coarsely grind this soaked dal in mixer/grinder. If some dal remains intact, unbroken it doesn't matter. Heat about two tablespoonful of oil of your choice in a yoke  (kadhai) on a high flame, add few mustard seeds. (Mustard seeds are not suitable if you are using Olive oil. Seeds may not burst but oil will get burnt. In such case use cumin seeds). Once the seeds splatter, add 3-4 curry leaves (kadhi patta), a tablespoon of chopped coriander leaves (if you like), add little turmeric (haldi) powder, chili powder as per your taste, and one fourth teaspoon of asafetida (hing) powder, if you like the fragrance,(read it as smell if you don’t like Hing). Reduce the heat. Immediately add the grinded chana dal and stir well. Cover for two to three minutes. Remove the cover, stir well and add salt as per your taste. Keep stirring occasionally till water (I know you have not added water, but Dal was soaked in water) is evaporated and dal becomes relatively dry. Avoid dal getting burnt. You may have to manage the flame in between while dal is done. Squeeze lemon as per your taste. Remove from yoke (kadhai) in large bowl. In about 10 minutes your evening snack is ready. It is certainly better than potato chips or any other fried snacks. Chanādā (short form of chana dal) is a high protein diet, with delicious taste. If anything is left over, store in jar and use it in next two days.

PS: If the Chanādā becomes too dry, as your texting got extended and you missed stirring, just don’t worry. Chanādā tastes great with some curd or yogurt, with a dash of salt to your taste. Very soothing and great taste. Enjoy.

Sabudana Khichadi

The decade of 1960’s has great significance in my life. I went from high school to college and from college to work. What I ate in this decade had a transition as it was the way food was cooked. It was a decade of intense learning on all fronts, political and social included. On political front India was betrayed by China when they started war on Oct 20^th, 1962. The entire country was shaken so was I. Just two years ago we greeted Chinese leaders with slogans like “Hindi Chini Bhai Bhai” (Indians and Chinese are brothers). The attack on India by China was an eye-opener for Indian politicians. There was a great demand for soldiers and government started recruitment under emergency commission in armed forces. Many of my friends joined the Army and few of them became martyrs in our next war with Pakistan in 1965. I was so keen to join Army but being underage I could not do that. The Pakistan war was another lesson for the politicians. Fortunately we had a great person like Lal Bahadur Shastri as a Prime Minister who steered the country well. He had a mysterious death in Tashkent. Then after the dark era of corruption consolidated its roots and flourished. India was passing through bad phase. We had acute shortage of food grains and milk products. Lal Bahadur Shastri advocated skipping just one meal a week to save on food grains. Serving rice in restaurants was restricted; guest control order limiting number of invitees for a social function and limitations on type and number of dishes to be served was promulgated. This order is still in force and has not yet been revoked. It has a similar fate like prohibition order in Maharashtra where there is a requirement of health permit to consume alcoholic beverages. The consumption is restricted but no one bothers and we have perhaps more wine shops than pharmacies in the state.

Lal Bahadur Shastri took up the slogan of “Jai Jawan, Jai Kissan” (Victory to soldiers and farmers). India begged for food and Americans under PL480 agreement supplied substandard wheat to India. The dark red colour wheat was not even suitable for consumption by cattle, but Indians had no choice. The wheat that caused gastric irritation was to be purchased in limited quantities, sanctioned by the government from public distribution system, commonly called as ration shops. With all these limitations, restrictions, inflation, changes in the food habits was obvious.

Best Khichadi ever invented

Another important event at the beginning of this decade was creation of Maharashtra and Gujarat and liberation of Goa. The hereto available Bombay Chowpatty Bhel was now available at Miramar beach in Goa. Thanks to our friends from UP, who helped spread this food culture to Goa. In a short course of time Bhel was easily available on any beach in Goa. Today along with Bhel even drugs are available.

I finished my college and got a job that took me first to Kanpur and then to Lucknow. I had a different exposure to regional food. The UP vendors who had mastered the art of Bhel in Mumbai were expert in Chaat business in this part of the country. In those days in Maharashtra, Panipuri was the only stuff from Chaat menu that was available, Aloo Tikki, Dahi Bhalla etc were conspicuously absent. In UP I had that opportunity to enjoy these Chaat specialities. Chaat later travelled world over and with modifications. Bhel also had close cousins like Sev Batata Puri, Batata Dahi Puri and many other variations. That’s the way food culture changes.

As a bachelor I had to manage my meals. During office hours whatever was available in nearby eateries was acceptable if not welcome. Evenings was little problematic. I had no vehicle with me and then to go out late in the evening was tiresome and expensive. The shortages, increase in prices, living in a different state, non-availability of good and reasonable eateries, all these had an impact on my food habits. An alternate to rice and wheat was essential. Something that can be cooked fast, with least botheration and is tasty was the basic necessity. And this led me to adapt on a regular basis my favourite preparation Sabudana Khichadi.

Ingredients for Sabudana Khichadi

I will share with you how I make this preparation today rather than how it was made about five decades back. It’s extremely simple. All you need is 100 gms Sabudana pearls (Tapioca Sago pearls) of standard size. Don’t take mini or nylon variety. Another ingredient is coarsely grinded powder of roasted groundnuts. You can buy a packet of roasted groundnuts that’s practically available in every grocery store. (For this easy availability thanks to all those who need it as an accompaniment with booze, they are the ones who ensure its availability even in small grocery shops). Place these groundnuts in mixer/grinder. Run the mixer/grinder in flashes till coarse powder is ready. You will need half teaspoonful of Jeera (Cumin Seeds), one or two finely chopped chilies, one teaspoon of lemon juice and two tablespoonful of oil or ghee and salt to your taste. Before you leave for work in the morning wash about 100 gms Sabudana with water. This will remove any dirt that it might have caught in the grocery shop or while repackaging. Soak this in adequate quantity of water. Generally when you pour water over the washed Sabudana, pour only that quantity which will just cover the Sabudana. Excess water will break the Sabuadana pearls and the final product can be soggy. Less quantity of water will leave the pearls hard, which may not get cooked. The trick is right quantity of water. By the time you return from office you will notice that the Sabudana pearls have soaked the water and have become large in size. Move this to a large bowl. Add powdered peanut, lemon juice and salt. Place a Kadhai (Yoke) on gas stove, add oil or ghee. Add Jeera (Cumin seeds), that will splatter once oil is hot. At this stage add chopped chilies, fry for a minute, switch off the gas and pour the contents from bowl in the Kadhai (yoke). Mix well. Transfer the contents to a microwave casserole. Place it in microwave, cover with a micro safe plate and cook on high for not more than three minutes. Let stand for another minute. Remove from the oven and place the Sabudana Khichadi in a plate. Sprinkle the chopped coriander leaves and enjoy. This is an acceptable preparation for fasting Hindus. Many of my friends fast just to eat the Sabudana Khicahdi, ablution from sins is secondary objective. For rich and for those who are allergic to peanuts, cashew nuts is a good substitute. Try out.

Management Student, another blog from the author

Akka's Dhirada

Cooking underwent a change in the decade of 1960’s. The conventional Chula  (चुल्हा) was replaced by kerosene stoves which were already available for long time but were not very popular for safety reasons and in that era kerosene was not subsidized by government as it is today. However when firewood and coal became expensive, Chulhas (चुल्हा) were on decline. Later LPG was preferred for cooking in bigger cities. With Chulhas (चुल्हा) gone the cooking got elevated to platforms and dining tables were finding a place in selected households. The brass utensils went in for recycling and these were getting replaced by shining smart looking stainless steel. Brightly shining steel (stainless steel is called as steel even today) plates reflected the affordability and acceptance of ‘modern’ culture. Aluminium vessels for cooking sneaked in to the households. The kalhaiwala (कल्हाईवाला), the ones who plated brass utensils with tin lost their livelihood. Thanks to the changes that took place. The traditional cutting and chopping gadget, Vili (विळी) in Marathi, got replaced with knives and chopping boards. Inter-regional food found its acceptance with Idli (इडली) and Dosa (डोसा or दोसा)  going places. This was followed by Tandoori and north Indian preparations breaching their traditional boundaries. 

Batter spread for Dhirada (Pancake), note the bubbles

There were few definite advantages of gas stoves. The stove got ignited instantly, it was easy to control the flame, and thus those dishes that needed low heat could be easily prepared on gas stoves. These advantages were of great help and helped cook better and faster. In earlier era the mid-day or evening snacks were mostly precooked because it was difficult to ignite the Chulha (चुल्हा) at odd hours and cook. The gas stoves offered the advantage of anytime cooking. This shifted the snacking habits from precooked to freshly cooked snacks. My after the school snacks that were Churma Laddoo (चुरमा लड्डू) or Roti (रोटी) with pickle or with ghee and sugar was replaced by freshly made Thalipeeth (थालिपीठ) or Dhirada. (धिरडं) It was easy, fast and convenient. There was also additional time available for experimentation, as time spent on igniting Chulha (चुल्हा) was eliminated.

Early sixties was the time when I went to college. Long hours in the college frequented visits to the canteen. In those days schools never had any canteens, but colleges had. During recesses the school children would rush to the fencing and buy boiled jujubes (Ziziphus jujube, बेर, बोरं in Marathi) or raw mango slices (कच्चा आम, कैरी in Marathi) or raw tamarind  (इमली,  चिंचा in Marathi) roasted ground nuts or roasted gram, from fence side vendors. Occasionally the school watchman or some teacher would play a spoilsport and deprive these students from the thrill of buying something that conventionally should not be bought. In colleges these restrictions were absent. The most common snacks in college canteens would be Aloobonda (आलूबोंडा similar to Batata Vada बटाटा वडा), Samosa  (समोसा) and variety of Bhajiyas (भजीया). Tea was the most common beverage and hardly anyone would opt for coffee that was rarely available.

Back home the fried stuff like Aloobonda (आलूबोंडा) , Samosa (समोसा), Bhajiya (भजीया) was not usually prepared, but pohe (पोहे) or sanja (सांजा, similar to Upama  उपमा), Thalipeeth  (थालिपीठ) and Dhirada धिरडं would be made. It was more from convenience point of view rather than health consciousness. There were no motorbikes or cars for youngsters, lots of walking or cycling would result in enough exercise and obviate any need for watching calories. I am going to share with you today a very simple recipe of Dhirada (धिरडं). This is a kind of pancake made from gram flour, Besan (बेसन), offers more of proteins. We generally add small quantity of garlic, green chili and chopped coriander leaves. Let’s proceed with the recipe.

Take in a bowl four heaped tablespoon of Besan (बेसन). Gradually add water to make paste. Add quarter spoon Carom seeds, Ajwain (अजवैन, Owa ओवा  in Marathi). These seeds will prevent stomachache, only the ache that is from overeating. Stomachache of J factor needs different treatment. To this paste add two finely chopped garlic cloves, about a teaspoon of chopped coriander leaves, one finely chopped green chili, you may have more if you want it hot, and salt to your taste. Add water to this mixture till you get consistency of sweet corn soup. Place a nonstick flat frying pan, Tawa (तवा) on gas stove, when it’s hot pour a spoonful of any edible oil of your choice. Spread the oil with the help of spatula that you will need to turn over the pancake. Reduce gas flame. Now with a ladle pour half of the mixture from bowl on Tawa (तवा) and spread with the ladle. You can also hold the fry pan handle and rotate in circular  motions to spread the batter in round shape. You may need some practice for this. Ensure that you find bubbles (as shown in the picture above) once the batter is spread. If you do not get the bubbles in first try, it doesn’t matter. The taste will not change, the look and thickness may be different and that is fine, not to worry. Spread till thickness becomes about 1 mm. You have to guess it, no need to have a measuring scale for this. Increase the flame; try to lift from a side to check if it’s done. If it’s done then it will easily come on the spatula. Turnover and cook over low flame for two minutes. Turnover again and finally place on serving plate. Repeat the procedure with remaining batter (mixture). These two Dhirada (धिरडं) will be enough for your evening snack or add another one or two that will be good enough even for light dinner. Keep a slice of ripe tomato or a glass of water by your side. If you happen chew the chopped chili it’s better to take a sip of water than to shower your favourite curses (galis) गालीया.

Akka's Dhirada, simply delicious

P.S. If you fail in the attempt, no need to worry. You can break the pancake further and scramble it, just like the scrambled eggs, the all favourite Anda Bhurji (अंडा  भुर्जी)  and still enjoy. It’s sure to taste great. Good luck. 

Churma Lajawab

Human beings are the only ones who grow and cook food. All other living species are not as fortunate as human beings. Thus the arguments related to more salt or more chilies in the preparations are limited only to humans, dogs will never fight like dogs over bad cooking. Never heard a dog complaining, this bitch can’t even cook properly. The history may take us back to 250,000 years (the recent scams in India has made it so easy to read large numbers, thanks politicians) to explain how cooking started, but that really doesn't matter. I know the history of cooking from the time I remember and it’s over six decades. That’s good enough.

I have a question. Do we really need to know this history? That was the era when technology was not developed. Modern gadgets were not available, firewood, coal, cow dung cakes was used as fuel. That’s not there today so why should I really bother to know how and what type of food was cooked in the past. Well I agree with all that. The present generation may not be interested in all those historical events. I was least interested know how Mahabharat described Bhim as a chef. Those events did not interest me, but cooking in 1950’s is of interest for me. I had lots of scolding and beating from my parents to mold my food habits. Thank God my parents were not in USA or else they would have been certainly arrested for child abuse. There were no radio programs, remember there was no TV in India in that era, that would bore you with stupid topics like how to make food interesting for your children. I know one thing for sure that if a child is hungry then child will eat. If child is not eating in spite of being hungry then it’s a medical problem and a doctor is needed not a radio or TV program to guide you.  Still if you force someone to eat that should be fine as humans and fish are two species that can eat even if they are not hungry. The difference is humans become obese and die later whereas fish generally die soon due to overeating.

Churma Lajawab

There were two aspects of cooking in decade of 1950; one was to cook the food for offering to the God and then consumption by family members, friends and invitees. This was painful as we won’t get to eat when we are hungry but only when all rituals are over.  Second aspect was cooking for consumption by everyone other than God. Of course God never ate food (except in some mythological stories) but offering on certain occasions was mandatory. And when God has to be offered the food there has to be no tasting done before serving the food. Just imagine how expert the cook has to be to prepare food without tasting, which has to be liked by the God and others. There was also a dress code and strict restrictions when food is being cooked and served. Food was always cooked at ground level, never on platforms or table tops. One had to squat near the chulha (चुल्हा), roll out and bake hundreds of rotis, just imagine how tough it must be. The cooking vessels, serving utensils, plates, bowls, ‘glasses’ were all of brass or copper occasionally of silver, more for serving and eating. The brass and copper utensils were to be periodically coated with a thin layer of tin (Kalhai कल्हाई ) so that the food that is being cooked doesn't react with copper. Such reactions could be poisonous. Periodic check to ensure the coating is in order was must. There were no utensils of glass, aluminium or stainless steel. Iron was used for knives, yokes, kadhai (कढाई), kalchhi (कलछि), and tawa (तवा)  . Beneficiaries would sit on the floor, on a carpet or wooden plank (pat) with folded legs for the meals. Food was usually served in brass plates, bowls coated with tin. If the number of guests was large then brass plates would be replaced by banana leafs or pattal (पत्तल), (patravli पत्रावळी in Marathi) and bowls by dron (द्रोण), a bowl shape container made from specific leaves that were used for making pattal (पत्तल). These were the ‘use n throw’ articles in that era of 1950’s.

There were no mixers, grinders, microwave or similar. So how would the mothers offer shakes and smoothies or warm the food specially mid-day snacks or evening snacks for their children? There were no chips like Lays or corn flour snacks like Kurkure or chocolate coated corn flakes like Kellogg available. There were no 2 minute noodles that generally takes 20 minutes to prepare.  There was no concept of soup being served as evening snack. With all these problems of non-availability of modern day junk, how would a mother provide nutrition to the child? Complex problem with a simple solution. And I am going to share one of this with you.

You return home in the evening, had a hectic day. Want to eat something before you get ready for the dinner. There are few packs of different variety of snacks from Haldiram are lying around, but you are in no mood to eat that. Try out a simple recipe. Take two rotis (रोटी), whole wheat Indian bread (similar to tortillas), from your fridge that you had kept aside to show to your rotiwalibai to question her ‘is this the way rotis are made’? You may take even three rotis depending upon your hunger and size of the roti. Put tawa over the gas on high flame. Place one roti at a time on tawa, roast from both sides till the rotis are crisp. Ensure they don’t get burnt. Keep turning frequently or reduce the flame. Once done crush them in your both the palms, as it is done for parhatas in a restaurant, but more vigourously and put them in mixer jar. If you don’t like crispy stuff then no need even to re-roast the rotis. They can straight go to the mixer. Add about three teaspoons of sugar or more if you like it sweet. I would prefer jaggery (gud), or brown sugar if available. Add teaspoon of Ghee, watch your cholesterol or add refined healthy oil of your choice. Run the mixer till the contents are turn into flex. If its powdered by mistake then also it’s fine. No need to worry. We call this as churma. Remove from the mixer in a bowl, if you like add a pinch of powdered cardamom. If possible make laddoos (round balls) of the powdered stuff. If not just let it remain in the bowl and enjoy a teaspoonful at a time.  You may sip tea or coffee but remember as the churma is sweet your tea or coffee may not taste the same as it would taste other times, still it’s worth sipping. You may get used to sugarless beverage.  Or you may have little pickle by the side to neutralize the taste of laddoo before you sip tea.

Roasted Rotis, crushed with jaggery and Ghee

I had these churma laddoos along with occasional thrashing from my mother as I would want something else to munch and not the laddos made from leftover roti. I was lucky that not many ready to eat snacks were available during my school days, else my mother’s hands would have been paining along with my back.

P.S. There is one more way to have churma laddoos. Find a Rajastani restaurant in the neighbourhood and order from there. You will like it but forget about fats and transfats and calories.