Friday, 15 November 2013

Vataleli Dal

Ever wondered how one could cook without a food processor, cooking gas, nonstick utensils, microwave and other ovens in the past? For that reason even refrigerators were uncommon in India in 1970’s. The question is very similar to the one how could one do the business or run an office without internet in the past. In 70’s of last century the culinary practices vastly improved upon the preceding decade. Nonstick utensils, glassware, ovens were becoming common though expensive in India. The mixer/grinders were getting popular. The conventional Khalbattā (Mortar and Pestle), Sil Battā, were getting in to attic. Sil Battā may be in different shapes or sizes, is used in other Asian countries as well as in South America. It is also important in Andean cuisine. It’s called Batan (Sil) and Un᷉a (Battā). It has a flat stone (the batan, in Marathi it’s Patā). And un᷉a (Battā) is a grinding stone (in Marathi - Varvantā). The Battā is held in both hands and rolled over the food placed on the Sil. The pressure on Battā is determinant for fineness of the grinded food, less pressure will leave the food coarse and more pressure would make it fine. The Sil Battā is used both for wet and dry grinding. Does the taste of food get affected by the way one uses the gadgets or medium to cook? The answer is YES. It does. Try out yourself. Sprinkle on a portion of your dish, may be a soup or salad,  dash of black pepper powder that you purchased from the grocer and now to compare it give a dash of freshly crushed black pepper to the other portion of the same dish. You will notice a remarkable difference. The taste and aroma of freshly crushed is so adorable (of course if you like black pepper) than the powdered one. The Ghee that you make at home has such a wonderful aroma compared to any branded Ghee available in the market. Food cooked on charcoal is much tastier than the food cooked on gas or electric stove. That’s what makes a Tandoori chicken so delicious than the broiled or grilled chicken with same masala. There are n numbers of factors that matter. Let me not make it complicated for you. Use any gadget, any medium that’s easy and available, but just add a dash of your love when you cook. That will make a big difference. A simple Dal (curried lentils) that you make when your spouse is in a good mood has to be different than the Dal you make tolerating indifferent mood of your spouse.  
Soaked and Roasted Savory Chana Dal
Anyways, in India 1970’s was a different decade. Eating out was becoming common. Restaurants were having a good time (they have still better time now). The food served was essentially Indian. But for continental cuisine, thanks to British, other cuisines were relatively unknown. The concept of cooking differently for God (as mentioned in earlier post) got diluted. The specialist cooks Achari or Ayyas were generally from Telgu Brahmin community for ceremonial meals, were on decline. For daily cooking one could engage Pandatva or Maharaj, from MP/UP Brahmin community from Rewa/Pratapgarh districts, were also on decline. ‘Caterers’ was a new breed that was emerging. We used to get Naganna and his brother Rajanna (Telgu Brahmins) to cook at our place on special occasions. On such days we had around 150 to 200 invitees for the lunch. Both the brothers would come to our place on previous evening of the function. Dug up the ground in the back yard and make a large chulas (Stove made from mud and bricks to use firewood for cooking large quantity of food). Then they would worship the chulha, allow it to dry overnight. Next ritual was to wash their spare dhoti (remember what Gandhi used to wear?), hang it on the clothesline to dry overnight. No one would ever touch their dothi as wearing a clean dothi untouched by anyone was the basic requirement for cooking food on such special occasions. These brothers did a great job with variety of dishes. Taste of one of the accompaniments cooked by these brothers still lingers on my tongue. It is a very simple recipe, more so with mixer/grinders available in every household. Think of those days when the cook had to use Sil Batta to prepare this dish for 200 guests. I really admire the physical and mental strength these guys had, to come out with wonderful dishes.

Soaked Chana Dal and other ingredients
To prepare this wonderful high protein dish take half cup of chana (gram) dal, soak it in adequate warm water for about half an hour. Don’t worry about quantity of water, let it be little more, anyway later you are going to drain it. You can keep dal for soaking after you return from office and while you get fresh. Coarsely grind this soaked dal in mixer/grinder. If some dal remains intact, unbroken it doesn't matter. Heat about two tablespoonful of oil of your choice in a yoke  (kadhai) on a high flame, add few mustard seeds. (Mustard seeds are not suitable if you are using Olive oil. Seeds may not burst but oil will get burnt. In such case use cumin seeds). Once the seeds splatter, add 3-4 curry leaves (kadhi patta), a tablespoon of chopped coriander leaves (if you like), add little turmeric (haldi) powder, chili powder as per your taste, and one fourth teaspoon of asafetida (hing) powder, if you like the fragrance,(read it as smell if you don’t like Hing). Reduce the heat. Immediately add the grinded chana dal and stir well. Cover for two to three minutes. Remove the cover, stir well and add salt as per your taste. Keep stirring occasionally till water (I know you have not added water, but Dal was soaked in water) is evaporated and dal becomes relatively dry. Avoid dal getting burnt. You may have to manage the flame in between while dal is done. Squeeze lemon as per your taste. Remove from yoke (kadhai) in large bowl. In about 10 minutes your evening snack is ready. It is certainly better than potato chips or any other fried snacks. Chanādā (short form of chana dal) is a high protein diet, with delicious taste. If anything is left over, store in jar and use it in next two days.

PS: If the Chanādā becomes too dry, as your texting got extended and you missed stirring, just don’t worry. Chanādā tastes great with some curd or yogurt, with a dash of salt to your taste. Very soothing and great taste. Enjoy.


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